First off: Stance. I decided on a +35deg front and +5 rear. Not as forward-facing as I usually enjoy, but oh well, it's a safe choice. I'll spare everyone the details of the trial and error of getting the discs in the pucks oriented a way that works.
Now to decide is which bindings to use. I have on hand:
- Cheap-ass Technines that came free with a board I bought at Play it Again
- Awful K2 A-Team bindings that injured my heel badly enough that it was painful to ride for the last month of last year's season
- Burton C60: stiff, supportive, responsive, comfortable, and extremely lightweight
Once I mounted the bindings to the plates, I started to realize that some things just weren't designed to go together. The bindings overhang the sides of the plates by about 1 3/4 inch. I'm sure they get a good amount of their stiffness from being placed directly on the board's topsheet. I think I'll give up some of it with the bindings suspended 1/2 inch above the board's deck. There's also the issue of the toe straps. Burton has a very clever design where the toe straps are held into the binding without a nut and bolt. I love the benefit of the thing never loosening and the light weight, but when used with a splitboard, well, things are bound to get lost in the most inconvenient places possible:
Imagine losing that at the top of a chute as you convert your board from touring to snowboard mode. Solution: Duct tape.
Now that ladder won't pass through the binding without a lot of coaxing.In touring mode, the overhang on the bindings almost causes them to hit each other, we'll see if that is a problem in the real world:
I pulled the skins out and had every intention of trimming them to size, but I was just not in the mood to do anything destructive and irreversible.
So look for an exciting and action packed skin-trimming post in the near future.
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2 comments:
I reckon I could teleturn those bitches!
I dare you Leigh!!
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